Aromatherapy 101

Aromatherapy is the practice of using volatile plant oils, including essential oils, for psychological and physical well-being.

Essential oils, the pure essence of a plant, have been found to provide both psychological and physical benefits when used correctly and safely. Although essential oils, CO2 extracts and absolutes are distilled by different methods, the term essential oil is sometimes used as a blanket term to include all natural, aromatic, volatile, plant oils including CO2s and absolutes.

In addition to essential oils, aromatherapy encourages the use of other complementary natural ingredients including cold pressed vegetable oils, jojoba (a liquid wax), hydrosols, herbs, milk powders, sea salts, sugars (an exfoliant), clays and muds.

Products that include synthetic ingredients are frowned upon in holistic aromatherapy. It is important to note that perfume oils also known as fragrance oils (and usually listed as "fragrance" on an ingredient label) are not the same as essential oils. Fragrance oils and perfume oils contain synthetic chemicals and do not provide the therapeutic benefits of essential oils.

Buyer Beware: Canada does not regulate the use of the word aromatherapy on product packaging, labeling or in product advertising, so any product can be marketed as a product suitable for aromatherapy. There are quite a few products on the market that contain unnatural ingredients including fragrance oils and claim to be aromatherapeutic. It's important to look at the ingredient label when seeking true aromatherapy products.

In brief, aromatherapy is the use of volatile plant oils, including essential oils, for psychological and physical well-being. Although the term aromatherapy was not used until the 20th Century, the foundations of aromatherapy date back thousands of years. The use of essential oils in particular date back nearly one thousand years.

The Chinese may have been one of the first cultures to use aromatic plants for well-being. Their practices involved burning incense to help create harmony and balance.

Later, the Egyptians invented a rudimentary distillation machine that allowed for the crude extraction of cedarwood oil. It is also thought by some that Persia and India may have also invented crude distillation machines, but very little is known.

Oils of cedarwood, clove, cinnamon, nutmeg and myrrh were used by the Egyptians to embalm the dead. When a tomb was opened in the early 20th century, traces of the herbs were discovered with intact portions of the body. The scent, although faint, was still apparent. Although the cedarwood the Egyptians used was distilled by a crude distillation process, the other oils the Egyptians used were most likely infused oils.

The Egyptians also used infused oils and herbal preparations for spiritual, medicinal, fragrant and cosmetic use. It is thought that the Egyptians coined the term perfume, from the Latin per fumum which translates as through the smoke. Egyptian men of the time used fragrance as readily as the women. An interesting method that the men used to fragrance themselves was to place a solid cone of perfume on their heads. It would gradually melt and would cover them in fragrance.

The Greeks learned a great deal from the Egyptians, but Greek mythology apparently credits the gift and knowledge of perfumes to the gods. The Greeks also recognized the medicinal and aromatic benefits of plants. Hippocrates, commonly called the "father of medicine" practiced fumigations for both aromatic and medicinal benefit. A Greek perfumer by the name of Megallus created a perfume called megaleion. Megaleion included myrrh in a fatty-oil base and served several purposes: (1) for its aroma, (2) for its anti-inflammatory properties towards the skin and (3) to heal wounds.

The Roman Empire built upon the knowledge of the Egyptians and Greeks. Discorides wrote a book called De Materia Medica that described the properties of approximately 500 plants. It is also reported that Discorides studied distillation. Distillation during this period, however, focused on extracting aromatic floral waters and not essential oils.

A major event for the distillation of essential oils came with the invention of a coiled cooling pipe in the 11th century. Persian by birth, Avicenna invented a coiled pipe which allowed the plant vapor and steam to cool down more effectively than previous distillers that used a straight cooling pipe. Avicenna's contribution lead to more focus on essential oils and their benefits.

Within the 12th century, an Abbess of Germany named Hildegard grew and distilled lavender for its medicinal properties.

Within the 13th century, the pharmaceutical industry was born. This event encourages great distillation of essential oils.

During the 14th century, the Black Death hit and killed millions of people. Herbal preparations were used extensively to help fight this terrible killer. It is believed that some perfumers may have avoided the plague by their constant contact with the natural aromatics.

Within the 15th century, more plants were distilled to create essential oils including frankincense, juniper, rose, sage and rosemary. A growth in the amount of books on herbs and their properties also begins later in the century. Paracelcus, an alchemist, medical doctor and radical thinker is credited with coining the term Essence and his studies radically challenged the nature of alchemy and he focused upon using plants as medicines.

During the 16th century, one could begin purchasing oils at an "apothecary," and many more essential oils were introduced.

During the 16th and 17th centuries, perfume starting being considered an art form, and it was more clearly defined as its own field.

During the 19th century, perfumery remained a propserous industry. Women would have their jeweler create a special bottle to hold their treasured perfume. The 19th century also was important scientifically as major constituents of essential oils became isolated.

During the 20th century, the knowledge of separating the constituents of essential oils was used to create synthetic chemicals and drugs. It had been believed that by separating the major constituents and then using the constituents alone or in synthetic form would be beneficial therapeutically and economically. These discoveries helped lead to "modern medicine" and synthetic fragrances. This actually weakened the use of essential oils for medicinal and aromatic benefit.

During the earlier part of the 20th century, a French chemist by the name of René-Maurice Gattefossé became interested in the use of essential oils for their medicinal use. Previously, he focused on the aromatic use of essential oils, but his interest in their medicinal use grew after an accident heightened his curiosity. While working, he burned his arm rather badly. By reflex, he plunged his burned arm into the closest liquid which happened to be a large container of lavender essential oil. The burn he suffered healed quickly and left no scar. Gattefossé is credited with coining the term aromatherapy in 1928 within an article where he supports the use of using essential oils in their whole without breaking them down into their primary constituents. In 1937, Gattefossé wrote a book called Aromathérapie: Les Huiles essentielles hormones végétales that was later translated into English and named Gattefossé's Aromatherapy. It is still in print and widely read.

Other highly respected 20th century aromatherapists include Jean Valnet, Madam Marguerite Maury, and Robert B. Tisserand. Jean Valnet is most remembered for his work using essential oils to treat injured soldiers during the war and for his book, The Practice of Aromatherapy, originally entitled Aromathérapie in French. Austrian Madam Marguerite Maury is remembered as a biochemist who avidly studied, practiced and taught the use of aromatherapy for primarily cosmetic benefit. Robert B. Tisserand is an English aromatherapist who is responsible for being one of the first individuals to bring knowledge and education of aromatherapy to English speaking nations. He has written books and articles including the highly respected 1977 publication The Art of Aromatherapy. The Art of Aromatherapy was the first aromatherapy book published in English.

From the late 20th century and on into the 21st century, there is a growing resurgence to utilize more natural products including essential oils for therapeutic, cosmetic and aromatic benefit. The use of essential oils never ceased, but the scientific revolution minimized the popularity and use of essential oils in one's everyday life. Today's heightened awareness regarding the use of synthetics coupled with the increased availability of aromatherapy information within books and the Internet has refueled the use of essential oils for therapeutic, cosmetic, fragrant and spiritual use.

An essential oil is a liquid that is generally distilled (most frequently by steam or water) from the leaves, stems, flowers, bark, roots, or other elements of a plant. Essential oils, contrary to the use of the word "oil" are not really oily-feeling at all. Most essential oils are clear, but some oils such as patchouli, orange and lemongrass are amber or yellow in color.

Essential oils contain the true essence of the plant it was derived from. Essential oils are highly concentrated and a little goes a long way.

Essential oils are not the same as perfume or fragrance oils. Where essential oils are derived from the true plants, perfume oils are artificially created fragrances or contain artificial substances and do not offer the therapeutic benefits that essential oils offer.

The chemical composition and aroma of essential oils can provide valuable psychological and physical therapeutic benefits. These benefits are usually achieved through methods including inhalation and application of the diluted oil to the skin.

Essential oils are often used by diluting them with a carrier oil (sweet almond oil, apricot kernel oil, grapeseed oil) and then applying this blend to the skin for absorption.

Careful inhalation of the oils can also provide therapeutic benefit as the oil molecules enter the lungs and are absorbed into the bloodstream.

Essential Oils are usually sold for individual use in very small bottles. See the Storing Your Oils page for information on how to store your oils.

Essential oils can vary greatly in quality and price. Factors that can affect the quality and price of the oil include the rarity of the botanical, the country of origin and growing/climate conditions, quality standards of the distiller, and how much oil is produced by the botanical.

At least once a week someone will email us asking “Are your oils therapeutic grade? You don’t state that on your website.”

To answer that question, first you must define what is meant by “therapeutic grade essential oils.” What does it really mean? Did you know that there is no organization in North America that oversees therapeutic quality, so the definition is really up for grabs? It can be what you make it. This is the reason that at The Apothecary we do not make the claim that our oils are “therapeutic grade” since, in this country, the term is meaningless, and often used as just marketing hype and greenwashing.

Any vendor can claim that their oils are “therapeutic grade” since there is no legal definition of the term.

In our opinion and experience, the correct term should be “aromatherapeutic grade”, since aromatherapy requires only the finest of essential oils. There are many criteria that must be met for an essential oil to truly be of aromatherapy quality:

STATUS

Organic status does not always mean "therapeutic" quality. What organic should mean for consumer products is that there are no synthetic chemical pesticides or fertilizers, and no GMO’s (genetically modified organisms) involved in the process at any stage from the agricultural level to the finished product. But know this: finding oils labeled “organic” or “certified organic” does not automatically extend to being therapeutic because 95% of all essential oils produced by “certified organic” distillers are still for the flavour and food products industry, still distilled under high pressure, and still not "therapeutic-grade" oils! Many of the larger “certified organic” distilleries have the flavour and food industries as their largest customers, who are not concerned about therapy.

An oil may well be grown organically, but poorly distilled.

This will give you a certified organic, mediocre essential oil. Not something we will knowingly put our label on.

ONE HARVEST

It is very common practice in our industry for botanical matter from different countries or even different years to be blended for distilling, or the oils from different areas or different years to be blended. We believe that aromatherapeutic grade oils should be distilled from one harvest. The oils should be offered as they come from the still, with no components increased or removed to meet an arbitrary profile.

THE COMMON DEFINITION

We don’t always know what other suppliers mean when they state their oils are “therapeutic grade.” What we do know is that a commonly agreed upon definition of “therapeutic grade” (not a legal definition, but often used by knowledgeable members of the trade) includes that the oil be from a named species, single crop, single distillation (not a mixture of aromatics from various areas, perhaps even various years), hopefully (but not always) either organically grown or knowledgeably and ethically wildcrafted. We know that our oils fit this definition, and we give you the information you need to make informed choices...do the vendors you are referring to give you the country of origin, the specific chemotype as well as botanical species?

Here at The Apothecary we strive to provide Aromatherapeutic grade oils, based on the definitions above.

For individual use, essential oils, absolutes and CO2s are most often sold in 5 ml, 10 ml and 15 ml (1/2 ounce) sizes. For more expensive oils, it is common to find them available in sizes starting at 1 or 2 ml.

Although essential oils do not become rancid, they do oxidize, deteriorate and lose their beneficial therapeutic properties over time. Oils such as the citrus oils will oxidize and begin to lose their aroma and therapeutic properties in as little as six months. Not all essential oils diminish in aromatic quality as time passes. The aroma of essential oils such as patchouli and sandalwood mature with age, however, Robert Tisserand explains that all essential oils oxidize and are subject to losing their therapeutic value in time. All essential oils benefit from proper storage and handling.

GLASS, PLASTIC OR ALUMINIUM?

To avoid deterioration and protect the aromatic and therapeutic properties of your essential oils, store them in amber or cobalt blue bottles. Dark glass such as amber or cobalt helps to keep out deteriorating sunlight. Be leery of purchasing any oils sold in clear glass bottles. Clear glass bottles are not harmful to essential oils, but clear glass does not protect the oils from damaging sunlight. Beer deteriorates quickly and is often bottled in amber glass for a similar reason. Avoid purchasing pure essential oils sold in plastic bottles as the essential oil will eat at the plastic, and the essential oil will become ruined over a short period of time. Some vendors sell oils in lined aluminum bottles. It has been said that aluminum bottles are acceptable if the interior of the bottles are lined.

BOTTLE CLOSURES

Avoid purchasing essential oils that are stored in bottles that have a rubber dropper incorporated into its screw-top cap. Droppers with rubber bulbs should not be kept with the essential oil bottle as the highly concentrated oil can turn the rubber bulb into gum and ruin the essential oil. Most essential oils are sold in bottles that contain an "orifice reducer." An orifice reducer is a small, usually clear insert inside the bottle opening that acts as a dropper. Unlike rubber droppers, orifice reducers will not harm essential oils. You simply tip the bottle to dispense the oil drop by drop.

STORAGE

Store Your Essential Oils in a Cool Location or the Refrigerator.

Prominent aromatherapy expert Robert Tisserand advocates storing essential oils in a refrigerated environment, whenever possible. If that is not possible, store them in as cool a location as possible. Avoid keeping essential oils in a location that is prone to temperature changes.

1% is used for those with frail health, the elderly, young children, as well as during pregnancy and breast feeding. It is also the recommended dilution for facial skincare products.

3% is considered the maximum dilution ratio for full body massage, as well as general bath & body care blends.

5% is considered the maximum (adult) dilution ratio for local/ pinpoint massage application, and general remedial blends that require frequent application. It is recommended that dilutions exceeding this should be used under the guidance of a qualified aromatherapist.

DILUTION RATIO TABLE:

Note: The above dilutions are a generalized guidelines, and will vary some as each essential oil has its own viscosity.

“Hydrosols are the condensate water co-produced during the steam or hydro-distillation of plant material for therapeutic purposes.” - Suzanne Catty

As far back as the 11th century, plant material was distilled expressly for the hydrosols it produced; essential oils were considered the by-product and often tossed aside. Hydrosols were most in use during the 18th century, in Europe. Due to the high volume of hydrosol that can be produced through distillation, new uses for the essential oils were researched, so distillation could be commercially viable. As more and more research was conducted, so did essential oils become more valuable. Today, essential oils are much more common therapeutically than hydrosols, but many feel that hydrosols are an invaluable tool to practical applications in daily life.

Hydrosols are sometimes referred to as floral waters, distillates or hydrolats. Many products on the market are merely water, essential oil and an emulsifier. Some hydrosols have the additions of vegetable glycerin, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, potassium sorbate, citric acid and dimethicone defoamer. Even in trace amounts, we consider these additions adulterations. These adulterations are not always displayed on the label. If you are planning to use hydrosols as therapeutic healing agents, you must demand pure, fresh, clean product free of anything other than the distillate water.

Hydrosols could be seen as the homeopathic sibling of the essential oil. Just as a homeopathic remedy contains a minute amount of the original material from which it is made, a hydrosol contains tiny amounts of the water soluble material from which it is made.

Introducing essential oils into your lifestyle can be quite easy, fun, and therapeutically beneficial. Below are a few ways in which you can get started. These methods are intended as guidelines only, and you do need to pay special attention to all safety pre cautions applicable for each oil that you choose. It is also important to remember that essential oils are flammable.

EASY INHALATION

Place 3-4 drops of essential oil on a tissue. Place the tissue near your nose and inhale. When trying an oil for the first time, use only one drop to ensure that you do not have a sensitivity or reaction to the oil.

STEAM INHALATION

Boil 2 cups of water. Pour the water into a bowl and add 3-7 drops of oil to the water. Use fewer drops if you are using an oil that may cause irritation to your mucous membranes (i.e. cinnamon, eucalyptus, rosemary, pine, thyme, cajuput, etc.). Place your nose about 12" away from the bowl and inhale. Don't inhale the steam constantly and if you notice any irritation or discomfort, stop immediately. Steam inhalation can help with colds and influenza. Use of energizing or relaxing oils can also make this method useful any time of day or night.

ROOM FRESHENING

Use the steam inhalation method noted above but don't directly inhale into the bowl. Use up to 10 drops of oil. Use fewer drops if you are using an oil that may cause sensitization. Other methods including use of an aromatherapy diffuser or lamp scent ring available through many aromatherapy companies.

GENERAL HOUSEHOLD FRESHENING

Add a few drops of oil to your trash can, laundry wash, drain, vacuum bag filter, or on a tissue for placement in your drawers.

AROMATHERAPY MASSAGE

Add up to 20 drops of essential oil to 1 ounce carrier oil such as sweet almond oil and massage onto yourself or partner. Keep away from eyes and genital areas. Do not apply essential oils to the skin without first diluting them. Be sure to also read the safety data for the essential oils you choose to use.

BATH

Add 5-7 drops essential oil to 1 ounce carrier oil. Add this blend to your running bath water and mix well before getting into the tub. Be sure to read the safety data for the essential oils you choose to use.

OTHER USES

Essential oils can be used in making homemade lotions, facial toners, shampoos, perfumes, soaps, shower gels, and other natural products. Additionally, essential oils are often blended for their therapeutic synergistic abilities.

The Books section of our site includes books that offer detailed recipes, other uses for essential oils, aromatherapy safety, and detailed essential oil information.